To Sardines, with an open mind

Sardine & miso pate

Sardines get a bad rap. But they’re worth visiting, plentiful, tasty and extremely good for you. The richness of this pate is cut by lemon and pickled ginger, and he miso paste is barely perceptible, but gives it a real punch of flavour. The whole, here, is glorious far beyond the humbleness of its parts:

Feeds 4

1 tin good quality sardines in oil

60g butter, room temperature

1 tbs white miso paste or gochujang (optional)

1 lemon, zest + 1tbs juice

generous pinch sea salt

To top: a teaspoon of pickled Japanese ginger, shredded (optional)

Drain your sardines of oil - you want about 90g of fish. Mash roughly with the rest of the ingredients till you have an even but not smooth consistency. Eat however you like: i like them best on sourdough toast for lunch, or rye crakers as a starter - top with shredded pickled ginger, lemon zest or capers.